Volume 1, Number 12 



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 From The Pages Of 
 The Black Bass Journal 

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ON THE FLY ...
THAT WONDERFUL
FLOATING DOUGHNUT

by Dennis Galyardt

Although I do not want to compare the attributes of float tubes and pontoons in this article I feel it is only fair to give some guide line comparisons. Pontoon boats cost a lot more than float tubes. Float tubes are smaller and easier to transport or carry. Pontoons are faster in the water since they slide over it rather than plowing through it. When fishing from the pontoon craft the angler sits higher, has a better view and perhaps a better casting advantage. While in a float tube the fisher is seated half under water, pontooners have only their legs below the knees in the water. In very weedy waters the tuber must push through and sometimes become entangled in the vegetation, the angler in a pontoon skims over the weeds. In windy situations float tubes ride low and are not blown around as much as the higher pontoon boat. Finally the pontoon craft is adaptable for moving waters whereas the float tube is best suited for still waters. If that doesn't help I'm not surprised. I hope it didn't make things worse for you. I think that I would still begin with a float tube for most warm water fly fishing situations.

If I were going to buy a new float tube I would probably spend my money on a U-shaped tube for easy entry. It would have a high backrest (inflatable), several pockets, a "quick release" seat and a few D rings for attaching helpful conveniences, such as a creel.

Many people wonder about the safety of this laid-back style of angling. I stopped worrying about this after I purposely tried to tip my tube over while sitting in it. I couldn't. The fisher's body makes the center of gravity low and this restricts any tipping motion. Most tube coverings are constructed of tough nylon with double stitching. The best tubes are made from material treated to resist the effects of ultra violet rays which break down the nylon over time. Some fly fishers fear snagging their tube with a wayward cast of a bass bug. The chance of a hook or branch penetrating and letting out the air is remote. Even if it does happen don't get too excited. Pin hole leaks release air at such a slow rate that the tuber has plenty of time to head for shore. The higher priced models offer several air bladders that provide a certain safety factor. In my home state of Nebraska, a personal flotation device is required equipment for float tubes. I prefer a Sterns flotation/fishing vest. It doesn't restrict casting form and even has a couple of pockets for extra fly boxes. I have become accustomed to wearing it even when I cross the border to other states.

Once when tubing a small lake in Iowa my inner tube burst. Now I don't want to frighten off would be float-tubers, and I must say that this is the only time this has happened to me or anyone I know. I was fishing for bluegills along the dam when a sound like a slap occurred behind me. Instantly the air was released from my tube from a six inch gash. I sank. but my vest and back rest kept my head and shoulders above water. I kicked and paddled with my arms to the shore, looking much I like the proverbial drowned rat. I was wet and a little chilly but not turned off. I don't know what caused the rupture but a new inner tube put me back in business.

Waders are usually necessary while belly boating, except in the warmest settings. Stocking foot neoprenes are certainly the best choice. Get a pair that covers your torso up to the armpits to avoid ice water down the back. Remember you'll be sitting down. A hint about what to wear under your waders: blue jeans tend to chafe the legs and may cause blisters behind the knees after several hours of kicking around in a tube. In cooler waters I prefer sweat pants and as the season progresses and the water warms, shorts work well under the neoprenes. If you don't mind getting wet and there aren't too many leeches, swimming trunks will suffice on a hot day. Be careful as the evening temperatures drop not to become too cool. Water can absorb your body heat rapidly and leave you shaking with hypothermia.

To propel the belly boat I prefer swim fins. These cause the tube to travel backward and take some getting used to, but are most efficient. Before I put them on, I strap a neoprene bootie on over my stocking foot waders. These shoes have a rubber sole that protects the wader feet from the parking area to pond. For those that prefer a boot foot wader, Force Fins and Caddis both manufacture fins that fit over the larger boot.

I know of several fly fishers with physical handicaps that find the float tube is a vehicle that allows them to continue fishing. Because of the buoyancy of the water, tubing becomes more like aquatic aerobics that they might do in physical therapy. When they get tired, the tube provides safe support while they rest. Naturally people with such problems should choose calm, small waters to try out the tube. That's probably good advice for beginners too.

That's about it for fancy equipment. Around $200.00 entry level price will get the fly fisher into float tubing. As a fly fishing guide I usually don't guarantee too many things when it comes to angling, but here I make the exception. If you are currently fishing a body of water for bass, try it with a fly rod and a float tube. You will catch more fish and have more fun....guaranteed.

To contact the B.B.F. directly, snail-mail them at :

The Black Bass Foundation
P.O. Box 670
Edgefield, SC, 29824

If you fish for bass, why not become a member of The Black Bass Foundation!


Please send your comments on this or any other article in the TFN Web-zine to the Editor at editor@the-fishing-network.com