Rods and Reels

One of the most common questions I'm asked is, "What size rod and reel can I buy that will cover all fishing situations?" Unfortunately, there is no such thing. Although we can combine some usages for a particular rod, different methods of presenting a lure or bait to the walleye usually require a change in rod action and length. Basically you need, at the very least, a combination jigging/backtrolling rod, a rod for casting artificial and a live baitcasting rod. Each has its own special features.

The jigging/backtrolling (a form of presentation we'll look at later) rod requires a fairly stiff-action graphite rod in the six-foot range, plus or minus six inches. For many years it was very common to look for "whippiness" in a rod and an interested buyer would take a rod and shake it from side to side to see if it would display multiple pattern bends, once considered a measure of the rod's quality. However, too much limpness in a rod will rob you of sensitive feel. In order to retain good contact with what's going on below and for snapping jigs through weeds, a medium to medium-heavy-action rod is essential here. Another thing that throws the angler off is the apparent stiffness of any graphite rod until it's loaded up with reel, line, and lure. Graphite is an important but expensive rod material. It is light, very sensitive, and quick-reacting, but it does not fare well under rough treatment. If graphite does not fit in with your budget, at the very least invest in a graphite-fiberglass composition rod. Its sensitivity is less than that of a rod made of graphite alone but it is still greater than that of a fiberglass one. Besides, these rods can be purchased for almost the same price as some top-of-the-line fiberglass models. You'll get the added bonus of a rod which will take more abuse than the sometimes-fragile graphites. Remember, feel is important -- a walleye strikes lightly, making it a necessity for the rod to be able to transmit the action to the angler.

The artificial lure rod can be of the spinning or baitcasting variety but my preference lies with baitcasting. This rod's primary purpose is to cast and troll crank baits and minnow baits. It does not need the stiffness of a jigging rod. A little softer tip with a good solid butt can be categorized as a medium-action rod to facilitate easy casting. Past trends have advocated short five-and-a-half-foot baitcasting rods for restricted casting areas amongst trees and docks, etc., but a six- to six-and-a-half-footer will make casting a breeze especially in terms of distance. Add aluminum oxide guides to reduce line wear and damage to complete your graphite or composite rod outfit.

Last comes our live bait rod. There are times when all the bait you'll need will be a small splitshot and hook tipped with a minnow or nightcrawler. Casting this combination can become a very delicate operation if you want to keep the live bait from ripping off. A long seven- to seven-and-a-half-foot rod with a fair degree of stiffness throughout its construction will provide effortless casting without loss of a lot of bait. Rods described as the salmon-egg type would be a close description of what you're looking for. Again, graphite and quality aluminum oxide guides will only increase the effectiveness of this rig.

Although you can enjoy a great deal of versatility with these rods, if your pocketbook can afford it, you can add a few more to your collection: an ultralight outfit will fit the bill in ultraclear water, ultrabright light conditions, where four-poundtest line is needed for a delicate presentation; a "flipping rod, a seven-and-a-half- foot graphite baitcasting rod loaded up with tenpound-test line, for fishing thick weed flats for walleye during the daytime (this rod is ideal for lifting big bass out of heavy cover, too).

As for reels, we can keep it quite simple. In spinning, go to the smallest reel available in a certain line without going ultralight. Smaller reels are lighter, they balance the very light graphite rods, and handle the six-pound- and eight-pound-test lines commonly used when tempting walleyes. They allow the forefinger to easily reach and pick up the line near the bait to enhance sensitivity. With larger reels the spools are further away from the rod handle, making this important task difficult to perform. Add a smooth stainless steel ballbearing system and a good quality drag, and you're in business. I should add that your reel should be equipped with silent anti-reverse if you're going to rely on the reel's drag system for feel. The clicking noise associated with past reels is unwanted vibration.

How do you pick out a smooth reel? First, take the handle and give it a good spin. If it turns seven or eight times before stopping, that's the one you want. In addition, close your eyes and turn the handle very slowly. Feel for any rough or sticking spots that may impede your sense of feel.

Baitcasting reels are, of course, another story. These reels can come with a host of different options. Today's baitcasting reels are so easy to master that it's not altogether necessary to have all the anti-backlash gizmos such as V spools and magnetics that are such big sellers. Just make sure it's smooth running and has a fair degree of quality. If money is no object, go for the gusto. Some reels are super-light pieces of machinery and can be cast without any thumbing, with no backlash or bird's nest.

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