Shallow-Water Fishing

Since walleye is a very light sensitive fish, most of the shallow-water fishing will be in areas supporting some type of cover. Early in the season, the fish will be fairly aggressive so you can use a fast-moving bait. Shallowrunning crank baits can be used to cover a lot of water, but be sure to use a buoyant one so that if the lure gets caught, it will float free of the snag. When the day gets bright, Specially in clearer waters, things may slow down and require changing to the slower-moving jig. use lightwire hook jigs that will bend and can therefore be pulled free of hang-ups.

In most natural lakes, a lot of fishing will be done in and around weeds. In the early part of the season weed growth on the flats is sparse and you can rip a jig within this thin growth. Longer casts may be necessary if the water is particularly clear or shallow. Pick a jig size that is going to get to the bottom in four to six feet of water, but isn't going to constantly cause problems by burying itself in the bottom growth. A one-sixteenthto three-sixteenths-ounce maximum size ball, or weedless jig, can be allowed to settle slightly into the weeds. Drop your rod tip down with the sinking line as the jig falls so as to be aware of any slight hits. Once the line is slack and the jig has settled, give the jig a good pop with your wrist and forearms to rip the jig through and above the weed growth, then allow it to settle. Repeat the process. When fish are really inactive, a splitshot and leech allowed to flutter down and rest in the sparse weeds can tempt a reluctant fish.

There is an alternative to the ripping method, ideal for fishing the edges: fish at a 90-degree angle to the edge, flipping a short cast into little pockets, slots, and holes. Technique is very important here. A short underhand and backhand flip cast of ten to 15 feet will ensure accurate placement of the jig. The next, and critical, step is to whip your rod tip in a vertical position before closing the bail. This will give you the slack necessary to produce a completely vertical fall. Now you can follow the line down with your rod tip. Watch for any line twitches at this point because an aggressive walleye riding high can and will take the jig. Once the jig settles, give the rod a good pop to rip the jig free of the weeds and allow it to fall again. Continue this until the bait reaches the bottom, allow it to sit briefly, hop it once, then pick it up and hit the next hole. Vertical drops are very important. If you allow the jig to fall on too tight a line, the bait will swing back to you away from the weeds. Keep in mind that you're trying for a response from non-aggressive (but catchable!) edge fish. It also fits their mood if you tip that jig with some meat. If using minnows, hook them through the mouth and out the top of the head instead of through the lip. Under favorable conditions, i.e., low light periods or low food supply periods, you can expect some good action. (Figure 3-8.)

Aggressive walleye can be worked faster and in a parallel fashion. If they're really going, put away the slow-moving baits and try cranking. Use long, thin minnow-type baits and try a pumping retrieve. Although the walleye is most susceptible to this method, the day-to-day responseprovoking retrieves can change, so be prepared to find the most productive one.

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