Rods and Reels

Preference in steelhead rods varies across their range, however, the one thing that they have in common is that they are longer than most used for freshwater fishing. Longer rods permit anglers to cast farther, hold line off the water (preventing drag from current), and better control a large steelhead. These rods range from eight to 15 feet in length.

The most common steelhead rods are between eight and ten and a half feet long. Known as drift rods, they have sensitive tips that enable anglers using baits to feel the often soft take of a steelhead, and gradually tapering actions (parabolic or semi-parabolic) into the butts. Some steelheaders prefer the so-called quick-taper rods, however, drift rods are versatile -- you can fish baits or lures with them. West Coast anglers often use drift rods with baitcasting reels, while Great Lakes steelheaders use spinning reels.

Popular around the Great Lakes, and gradually coming into use on the West Coast, is lighter steelhead tackle. Anglers now use lines as light as two pound-test for steelhead fishing in clear water. However, it takes a special long, soft rod to handle light lines. Coined "noodle rods" by Michigan angler Dick Swan, the man who pioneered their development, they range from nine to 15 feet long. They are capable of bending into a full circle when used with the lines for which they were rated. This makes them extremely shock-absorbent -- the reason you can use light lines with them and still land large steelhead. There is now a whole range of these noodle rods able to handle anywhere between two- and eight-pound-test lines. The most practical for small streams is one that will handle four- and six-pound-test lines, in ten- or 12-foot lengths. Longer rods are useful on larger rivers where you have room to fight a steelhead on light line, at river mouths, and in the Great Lakes. (Figure 2-3.)

Fly rods are also popular for steelheading, not only for actually fly fishing but also for drift fishing with baits or even with spinners on smaller Great Lakes streams where casting distance is usually less than 30 feet. The length of monofilament can be strip-cast with a fly rod quite easily using a soft lob cast.

While ocean fishing on the West Coast for steelhead is practically unheard of, Great Lakes anglers regularly troll for them offshore. Rod choices range from common seven foot spinning models and up. But downrigger fishermen prefer the same eight- to nine-foot rods used for salmon when they are after steelhead. These rods are usually used with a baitcasting reel.

Steelhead rods are at their best when made of graphite or boron, the newer composites. These materials ire more sensitive and often lighter than fiberglass rods. They allow you to better feel the bite of a steelhead when free-drifting with baits. And, in the case of noodle rods, their more rigid construction gives them a better feel when they are not under tension. When under load i.e., with a fish on, their true soft actions take over to cushion line shock. Hook-setting power is also better, another plus. However, such rods are more expensive than fiberglass models and they demand better care. Their sidewalls are thinner and can be damaged more easily by rocks or abrasion. Latitudinal strength is less, although rod manufacturers are now finding ways of correcting this. Knowing these limitations will help you avoid excessive yanking of the rod if your bait or lure snags on bottom. You'll learn to take the line in your hand instead.

Rod guide materials should be light and durable. The most popular are made of aluminum oxide (Fuji guides) or silicon carbide (S.I.C. guides) as casting distance is better with these highly polished materials. Aluminum oxide guides, however, do tend to ice up faster in cold weather so many steelheaders choose hard-chrome stainless steel guides or the more expensive S.I.C. ones. Single-foot guides are often used when drifting rods and noodle rods are combined with spinning and fly reels. Double-footed guides are needed on rods used with baitcasting reels. For river fishing I prefer black guides -- flashy gold or silver-trimmed guides may look nice, but in clear water they can spook steelhead.

For drifting and noodle rod handles, both fixed reel seats and sliding reel seats have their proponents. I prefer sliding reel seats (with all-cork handles for warmth when winter fishing) because I can balance a variety of reels on the same rod. Balancing your tackle is important. When held at the common point where your hand would be while casting, the reel should balance the outfit. If your wrist is tired at the end of a day's fishing, you need to correct the balance. To do so, adjust the position of the reel (with a sliding reel seat) or choose a reel that balances the rod, or add weight in the rod handle. Check the balance by making sure the rod tip does not have a tendency to dip down or up.

Choosing a reel for steelheading is somewhat easier than choosing a rod. Again, personal preferences come into play, but an open-faced spinning reel, with a quality drag, is probably the top choice for drift rods and noodle rods. On the West Coast, many steelheaders lean towards baitcasting reels, while some light-line steelheaders on the Great Lakes use close-faced spinning reels (those that hang under a rod). Others prefer centre-pin reels, which resemble large fly reels, especially for float-fishing with bait. Line is cast from the side of these reels, which are freespooling. They take some time to get used to. For downrigger fishing on the Great Lakes, baitcasting reels predominate. Fly fishermen use a variety of single-action and multiplying reels -- many prefer fly reels with a drag system for steelheading. For casting and retrieving lures, spinning or baitcasting reels are required.

Examine what steelheaders in your area are using with different rod combinations before you make a decision on what to purchase. Your style of fishing -- what baits or lures are to be used -- will also influence rod and reel choices.

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