Hooks, Lines, and Sinkers

I'll not go into great detail about hooks because preferences vary, but a few generalizations can be made. Short-shanked, turned-out-eye hooks are preferred by most steelheaders. The size will vary with the line tests and baits being used. Heavier wire or forged hooks are used with lines testing ten pounds or more, in sizes eight to 12. For eight- to ten-pound lines, sizes six to ten are used. Light liners use fine-wire hooks in sizes ten to 16. All hook companies make specialty hooks for steelhead, so it's best to try several brands and styles until you find one you like.

Monofilament lines are used almost exclusively by steelheaders for bait or lure fishing, although some trollers and drop-back fishermen prefer non-stretch Dacron for its better hooksetting capabilities when lure fishing. Monofilament for steelheading must have good shock and abrasion resistance and knot strength, a relatively small diameter, and it must be limp enough to cast properly. Avoid the bargain-brand lines -- quality control is poor. Such name brands as Stren, Trilene (steelheaders favor XT), Ande, Triple Fish, Maxima, Aeon, Sir Tan (Yakima baits), Shakespeare, and the like are all reliable.

Line color preferences vary. On some streams that are a brown tannic-acid stained, brown lines are Popular. On some agricultural rivers around the Great Lakes, which are often a green-clay shade (even when clear), mist green or gray lines are used. I prefer to stay with clear lines for all rivers and I avoid using fluorescent lines for leaders, but often use them for the main line and then add a clear leader. They're easier for line-watching and to detect a hit.

 Whatever line you use for steelheading, check the last few feet frequently for nicks and abrasions. Steelheading is hard on a line because it is constantly rubbing gravel or rocks on a river's bottom. Break off any weakened section and re-tie the hook. put new line on your reel every five to ten days of fishing time -- anything less would be false economy.

Sinker set-ups for free-drifting baits and egg imitations are as diversified as the baits themselves. They range from splitshot placed ten to 15 inches above the hook to strip-off leads used in rivers with a lot of snags. The popular ones are outlined in Figure 2-2. Which one you will use will be dictated by the conditions you face on different rivers. It is how you use these rigs and present your spawn or imitations that is most important.