Angling for a Trophy

It is the dream of most brook trout anglers to go to a river which has trophy-size fish. Canada is favored with several rivers in this category, most of which flow into the Hudson Bay basin. These are north-flowing rivers with no access except by canoe (the hard way) or by plane (the easy way). The main branches of the Severn, Winisk, Sutton, Albany, and many Quebec rivers hold big brook trout with five- to seven-pound fish being quite common.

During most of the season anglers work for these trout at rapids. The higher oxygen content of the water, greater food supply, and deep pools entice the fish to collect there. During spawning in late October, the fish will spread out onto the many gravel bars to build their redds. At the rapids, which might be 450 or 550 yards from shore to shore, the trout hold in pools and pockets of water beside and beneath the faster flow. The water delivers their food supply and provides a measure of protection from predators. The angler can fish the long lower runs from a boat. The most popular fishing method involves the use of brass or gold weighted spinners cast across the fast water and retrieved along the edge of the current. The depth at which the fish hold depends on water temperature, barometric pressure, and available forage. A few casts and retrieves and the angler will know the depth of fish.

Fly fishing for these big brook trout adds a special dimension to the sport. The muddler minnow, a deerhair-bodied fly, was developed to take trophy brook trout on the Nipigon River before dams ended the reign of big fish on that body of water. Muddler-like flies are still effective on the big northern rivers. In fact, there are occasions when these trout fight over the privilege of being hooked on the fly.

A seven-weight system of fly rod and line is a good choice for trophy brook trout. A nine- or ten-foot rod of boron, graphite, or fiberglass will throw sufficient line to get the fly out over the fast water and be strong enough to pull the fish back through the rapids. A WF7F line is best for this kind of fishing. Use a nine-foot leader tapered to a six-and-a-half pound tip. The heavy leader tippet is needed to turn the fly over and land it with some accuracy.

During one trip on the Winisk River, fishing at the Tashka Rapids, we waded carefully along the rock outcroppings, casting a large muddler minnow to the edge of the fast water. The current would carry the fly downriver very quickly. Each successive cast was three feet further until we reached the limit of our casting ability. This way we were able to cover a great deal of potential fishholding water. If the muddler failed to produce, then a large stonefly nymph was used.

A black woolly worm is a good substitute for the stonefly. Use a brown stonefly nymph pattern size 6 to fish beneath fast water. Cast the fly at the small falls which will drive the fly under and follow the drift with your rod. Short-line fishing is best here -- perhaps 25 to 40 feet of line is maximum. It is necessary to keep a tight line between angler and fly in order to feel the fish take.

Too few anglers have much experience in fighting big fish. Most of us catch a fish over four pounds a few times in a lifetime of fishing and then wonder why we lose it. We blame the hook, the line, the leader, the fellow handling the net, and the "stupid" fish. In reality it is our inexperience that is the culprit.

In theory, a spin fisherman or an angler using a baitcasting reel should be able to handle a fish ten times the weight of the stated strength of the line. A six-pound line should hold a 60-pound fish, depending on several factors:

The line should be new and of good quality. Monofilament deteriorates over time. Sun, heat, and chemicals are detrimental to the life of the line. Line is cheap when compared to the chance of losing a big fish. Change it each year and carry spares for special trips.

heck your knots. They are the weakest section of the line. And know which knots to use in attaching line to lure, line to line, or, in fly fishing, line to backing. Some line manufacturers issue small booklets on tying knots. Ask your tackle dealer.

Take care that your reel is working correctly. A large number of big brook trout are lost when the reel which worked on the little fellows quit under the strain of the big fish. A reel should be cleaned and oiled or greased according to the manufacturer's specifications at least once a year and particularly before a big fishing trip. The reel should be filled to capacity with quality line to ensure good drag and to function well.

ass a small piece of tissue paper through your line guides. Monofilament and other lines can wear the metal guides, creating sharp edges which can cut or fray the line. The tissue paper will leave bits on the guide if this is a problem. Replace the guide if necessary.

The hook is basic to fishing of any kind. The hook should be sharp. If the point of the hook does not catch when touched to your thumbnail, it requires sharpening. Use a hook hone or a small file. Sharp hooks penetrate quickly and are less likely to bounce off the hard mouths of big fish. Check the lure or fly after a few hours' use or when the hook hits something during a cast.

Once the fish is hooked, keep the rod at a 45-degree angle. The rod is like a long spring -- it will absorb the pull and smash of the bulldogging fish. When fly fishing, retrieve loose line onto your reel as fast as possible. Extra line only gets caught on trees, stumps, or roots and allows the fish to work free.

Rather than pulling a large brook trout straight in, try to pull it to the side, either to the right or to the left. This throws it off balance, making the fish fight the water instead of using it against you, the angler.

If using a geared spinning reel or bait rod, keep reeling to maintain tension on the line. The tension on the gear should allow the fish to run, but not too easily, nor should it be so tight that the line jams and breaks.

Do not grab the line when the fish is closing towards you. The fish may decide to run or dive resulting in a cut or burned hand. Bring the fish to the net by keeping the net low in the water and then ease the fish over it. The lift should come from below; void jabbing at the fish as it appears. Sudden movement will cause it to take off again.

There is a fine line between trying to horse the fish that is panicky and in flight and drawing the fish towards you under its own power. Horsing will result in lost fish while he latter technique may have the fish swimming directly in to the angler. Many anglers, afraid of losing the fish, try to really tire the fish for easy handling by playing it for an excessive length of time. However, these anglers risk having the fish escape during a long play. It should be noted that long play increases the possibility of damaging the fish in such a way that release may not be possible. Unfortunately, or fortunately, only catching big fish will teach the fine points of landing one.

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